I have problem with a motor that I got that had sat for 7 year's . I got it running after replacing the carb & point's . But as it warms up it drips more and more oil out from were the crank pully enters the case . Could it just be I need to replace the pully ? Thinking maybe the oil slinging groove's are filled with rust and not doing there job ?

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Wayne

There must be a seal in there that is leaking. I had a leak from my rear main seal and added an additive to my oil that is supposed to swell the seals slightly, sealing the leak. That was about a week ago and I haven't driven it since. I'll keep you posted on if that stuff worked.

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Friedle
I understand there is no seal at the crank pulley.  Things to consider: If there is accessive blow by that is where it will leak first.  I think you are correct in thinking the slinger is dirty.  Could be sludge, (sitting so long) or rust, I doubt it.  So, you could try an engine flush and risk the rest of the seals, or get a cleaned inside engine and run effieciet with no leak.  Oh, wait a minute, with the roar of the flat four you get leaks as a no cost option  Let me know your results, and drive the heck out of the bug, and buy a large drip pan  man!
Patrick.
'72 Super. Paint-7/20/09, 400+k miles, New engine case "41" Brazil, rebuilt German heads, new Bosch electrics, new Solex German carb. new German silencer. Built by Steve Tims Performance/Enterprises, Riverside CA. '73 OEM airfilter, (Fram elemement), chrome stock wheels, daily driver, 25.46-27.50mpg, driven 20+years.
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bumblebee73
if your case is wore out you can convert it  to a sand seal pully set-up
check this out , had it on my old engine until i blew it up , worked great for about 2 years.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=296
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I find the culprate. It was a stuck pressure releif valve .
After removing and cleaning the leak is gone . But this leads me to believe That the end main bearing may have excessive clearnce to allow that much oil to be prayed at the timing gears. But the oil pressure is good so I'll run it till she blows.
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Friedle
I think I'll buy the seal from CB  Bumblebee73 tell me about the instillation of the crank pulley seal.  Please give details on what needs to be dissasembled, bolt torque, and any tricks to make the job go easier.  See my signature for bug type.  What do you do to check the pressure relief valve(s).  Thanks in advance for all replys...

Patrick. 
'72 Super. Paint-7/20/09, 400+k miles, New engine case "41" Brazil, rebuilt German heads, new Bosch electrics, new Solex German carb. new German silencer. Built by Steve Tims Performance/Enterprises, Riverside CA. '73 OEM airfilter, (Fram elemement), chrome stock wheels, daily driver, 25.46-27.50mpg, driven 20+years.
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bumblebee73

the sand seal kit comes with instructions. when you install the seal the engine needs to be clean and use a 2 part epoxy(like squeeze tube jb weld) or what i used, indian head avation sealant . all you have to do i remove the crank pully , clean the engine of oil and grime where the pully slides inside the motor , put the sealant on the seal and install it into the engine, let it sit 24 hours  so the sealant can dry . install the supplied washer then the crank pullyand then the bolt and washer then torque. there is also a smaller washer that goes installed behind tour alternator pulley.

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MY72BUG
THANK YOU ONE AND ALL !!!  I was in conversation with a newbie to Beetles who lives one town over.  He fell in love with a roadside Beetle convertible in Florida, bought it on the spot and drove it home.  He has had a host of problems with the car and has been learning at a steady pace.  ( eg: That oil in the air filtre IS supposed to be there and you should not have drained it.)  His latest problem is exactly what you guys have described.  I am frantically hoping that we will find the same solution(s).  It sure beats pulling an engine.   Dan ( MY72BUG ) in Goderich.
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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OldPunk

WAYNE:  Did your oil-additive stop-leak do the trick? I believe I've got a front seal that's headed south, but I need to put off the fix for a while. I've been contemplating an oil additive, too. Please let us know if yours did the trick. Thanks.

OldPunk
_______
Keep yer hands on the road and yer eyes upon the wheel.
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Wayne

I hate to say it but it made the problem worse. Where I would have a couple of drops on the floor I now have a little puddle. I ordered a special silicone double lip seal and I'm going to have to put in about a week from now.

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Word from the now wise:

I just pulled a '76 out of a 7 year storage period in August. The gas tank was full of rust which caused numerous problems. And today I threw the rod bearings and locked up the motor...with a full oil level. My advice is to drop the motor and open it up to see what's inside the bottom end, especially if it sat outside and/or on old oil. It may save you several hundred dollars and a tow later on.
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